Monday, February 29, 2016

Domaine Dujac/Dujac Fils & Père (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2014s Tasted from Cask

Jeremy Seysses said that overall, quantities of wine produced were close to normal, although there were a few spots hit by hail: Monts Luisants, Combottes, and part of Clos de la Roche. Harvesting began for the reds on 15 September, a bit earlier for the whites. (Continue reading here.)

Sunday, February 28, 2016

Domaine Digioia-Royer (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2014s Tasted from Tank and Cask

Michel Digioia characterized the quantities of 2014 as “not abundant, but correct.” Harvesting began on 17 September. There was less triage than in 2013, but there still was some. Harvesting was entirely by hand. All grapes were destemmed. On the whole, malolactic fermentations were rather late, and they were extremely late for the Bourgogne and the Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes de Nuits. There is good quality to be had here. (Continue reading here.)

Saturday, February 27, 2016

Domaine Méo-Camuzet (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2014s Tasted from Cask Samples

Harvesting began on 13 September. Production in 2014 is 20-30% above than in 2013 and is the largest since 2009. Stems are used in some wines, as indicated; but they are not really whole cluster fermentation, rather, the stems back while the wine is fermenting. (Use of stems, of course, is a recent change; the winemaking tradition here goes back to Henri Jayer, who was very much against using stems.) There was a mixture of punching down the cap (pigeage) and pumping over (remontage). For the most part, malolactic fermentations finished over the summer. (Continue reading here.)

Wednesday, February 24, 2016

Domaine et Maison Marchand-Tawse (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2014 Part III: Red Grands Crus Tasted from Cask

As my two previous postings have indicated, the reds on both Côte de Beaune and Côte de Nuits at village and premier cru levels were most successful. In general, 2014 is a vintage of compression (that is, not that much difference in quality as one goes up the ladder of quality), so one might expect that the grands crus were not much above the premiers crus; but that’s not the case here. The wines are outstanding, and in particular the Clos Saint-Denis, the Charmes-Chambertin, the Chambertin-Clos-de-Bèze, and the Chambertin. (Continue reading here.)

Monday, February 22, 2016

Maison et Domaine Marchand-Tawse (Nuits-Saint-Georges) -- 2014 Part I: Côte de Beaune Reds Tasted from Cask

I’ve known Pascal Marchand since the first time I visited Domaine des Epeneaux/Comte Armand in Pommard in spring 1988, and I’ve liked his wines through the years at Domaine de la Vougeraie and then here at Maison et Domaine Marchand-Tawse. But they have always had a considerable amount of tannin and extraction, and thus required very long patience. Additionally, at times they could seem rustic. (Continue reading here.)

Saturday, February 20, 2016

Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2014 Part I: Côte de Beaune Tasted from Cask

Louis Boillot said that on the Côte de Beaune, his quantities were a little less in 2014 than in 2013 (both vintages suffered greatly from hail), and on the Côte de Nuits, the quantities were slightly more than in 2013. The main harvest began on 13 September, although the Volnay-Angles was brought in on 11 September. As always, all the grapes were destemmed. (Continue reading here.)

Friday, February 19, 2016

Domaine Ghislaine Barthod (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2014s Tasted from Cask

The disappointing news for Ghislaine Barthod’s many fans is that the small quantities that began in 2010 for the most part continue in 2014; and in 2015, the quantities are even less. She said that in 2014, the volumes did increase for the Bourgogne and the village Chambolle, but for the premiers crus, the volumes were like in 2013. The need to eliminate botrytis was the main culprit behind the small quantities. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine de la Vougeraie (Prémeaux-Prissey) -- 2014 Part II: White Wines Tasted from Cask and Bottle

As mentioned in the previous post, in 2014, the harvest took place between 10 and 25 September and yields were at the permissible limit.  For the whites, 30% of the malolactic fermentations took place in new wood; the exception was the Chevalier-Montrachet, where the number was 50% because there were only two barrels. (Continue reading here.)

Thursday, February 18, 2016

Tuesday, February 16, 2016

Domaine Robert Groffier Père & Fils (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2014s Tasted from Cask Samples

Harvesting began on 15 September, said Nicolas Groffier. He didn’t have to do much sorting because he began going through the vineyards a week before the harvest and because there wasn’t much rot. Had he harvested a week later, he said, it would have been a problem. Yields were about 37-38 hl/ha in 2014 (and only 25 hl/ha in 2015). (Continue reading here.)

Sunday, February 14, 2016

Domaine Jean-Marc and Hugues Pavelot/Bourgogne Hugues Pavelot (Savigny-les-Beaune) -- 2014 Part I: Reds Tasted from Cask and Tank Samples

Production in 2014 was about 30 hl/ha, and 2015 was about the same; 2013 was less. Harvesting began on 9 September. There was some hail in the Peuillets and Dominodes vineyards in Savigny as well as Bressandes in Beaune, said Hugues Pavelot. At harvest, there were no difficulties. By June or July 2015, the malolactic fermentations had finished. (Continue reading here.)

Saturday, February 13, 2016

Domaine Georges Noëllat (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2014s Tasted from Tank and Barrel

Harvesting began on 16 September. There was a little hail damage in the Chaumes vineyard, said Maxime Cheurlin, and overall production at the estate was off 10% from normal. (In 2015, volume will be up as the old vines didn’t suffer as much from heat stress as in 2014.) As usual here, all grapes were destemmed. Malolactic fermentations took place in the spring. Bottling was expected to begin at the end of 2015 for the two village wines, which were already in tank when I visited in early November. (Continue reading here.)

Friday, February 12, 2016

Domaine Marc Roy (Gevrey-Chambertin) -- 2014s Tasted from Bottle

This was the third year in a row that I visited the dynamic Alexandrine Roy, who in addition to being in charge here is also the directing winemaker at Phelps Creek in Oregon. (Continue reading here.)

Domaine G. Roumier/Christophe Roumier (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2014s Tasted from Cask

Harvesting began on 16 September. He said that there was not much need to do a sorting at harvest – there had been a little problem with Asian fruit fly, but that was dealt with before harvest by taking off the grapes. Quantity overall is about average for the last twenty years: in 2014 it was 32 hl/ha, the 20-year average is 33 hl/ha (but note that in 2015, the quantity is down 25% from the average, comparable to 2010 and 2012). (Continue reading here.)

Wednesday, February 10, 2016

Domaine Georges Mugneret-Gibourg (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2014s Tasted from Cask

Marie-Andrée (née Mugneret) Nauleau described the quantities in 2014 as not quite normal but the best since 2009. In 2009, the estate produced 120 barrels, which she described as optimal, although certainly not what they can do every year. In 2014, production was 105 barrels, in 2015 it was 90 barrels. The estate’s website says that average production is 32,000 bottles, which is a little under 107 barrels. (Continue reading here.)

Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Domaine Hubert et Laurent Lignier (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2014s Tasted from Cask

Laurent Lignier said that in 2014, quantities were average (in 2015, they are about 15% below 2014). He did both a green harvest and leaf pulling. Since 2011, he has been following organic practices and this year (2016) will begin the process of seeking organic certification. (Continue reading here.)

Monday, February 8, 2016

Domaine Jean Grivot (Vosne-Romanée) -- 2014s Tasted from Cask Samples

Etienne Grivot said that his quantities were up some in 2014 over the 2010-2013 period (and even more a bit in 2015):

            2010-2013:   150-170 barrels produced each vintage;
            2014: 220 barrels;
            2015: 235 barrels.
Still, a full cellar is 260-280 barrels, something not seen here (and in most cellars in Burgundy) since 2009. (Continue reading here.)

Friday, February 5, 2016

David Duband (Chevannes) -- 2014s Tasted from Samples Drawn from Cask and Tank

David Duband said that he began harvesting on 13 September. He said that it was not necessary to do a lot of sorting; he did have to sort a bit for problems with the Asian fruit fly in three parcels, two of which were from properties he purchased from. Overall, he characterized the quantities as “correct.” He used some whole clusters in all the wines, as has been his practice for some years now. Malolactic fermentations were quick. (Continue reading here.)

Thursday, February 4, 2016

Domaine Jean Fournier (Marsannay) -- 2014 Reds from Cask and Tank Samples, Whites and Rosé from Bottle

Marsannay was only created as an appellation for red wine in 1987 (prior to that, red wines were made, were labelled Bourgogne). During most of that short history since 1987, the wines have been relatively anonymous examples of Pinot Noir. But things have been changing recently, both with the wines of producers from outside the village, such as Jean-Louis Trapet and Denis Mortet in Gevrey-Chambertin, and even more so with a group of talented producers who are located in the village. One of that Marsannay-based group is Laurent Fournier of Domaine Jean Fournier, an estate that has origins back to the 17th century. (Continue reading here.)

Tuesday, February 2, 2016

Domaine Dublère (Savigny-les-Beaune) -- 2014s Tasted from Cask

Blair Pethel is an American who more than a decade ago gave up a career in journalism to settle his family in Burgundy and make wine (after studying at the lycée viticole in Beaune, 2004 was his first vintage). This has been a source of good wine, especially whites, in a racy, food-friendly style. (Continue reading here.)

Monday, February 1, 2016

Domaine Jean-Jacques Girard (Savigny-les-Beaune) -- 2014s Tasted from Cask, Tank, and Bottle

Although I have heard good things about this estate, over the years I’ve only had one or two wines (which left favorable impressions). This fall, I visited for the first time, and I’m glad I did. The estate dates to 1906; Jean-Jacques began in 1972 and now has about 15 ha of vines. We tasted the wines in a new facility that has existed about a year. This is clearly yet another excellent source in Savigny-les-Beaune, one of the centers of interest for those who seek the best values in the Côte d’Or. (Continue reading here.)