Monday, October 24, 2016

2015 Nahe Riesling Grosses Gewächs Part I: Schäefer-Fröhlich

When I tasted the Nahe GG’s at the Wiesbaden tasting, the wines were too warm and I could not accurately judge them. Fortunately, I followed up the tasting with visits to a number of the producers: Schäfer-Fröhlich, Dönnhoff, Schlossgut Diel, and Gut Hermannsberg. I will present notes on their GG’s in the next few posts, and then in later posts will review all of their wines that I tasted on the visits. Unfortunately, I will not be able to review the GG’s of other Nahe producers that I did not have time to visit. (Continue reading here.) 

Wednesday, October 5, 2016

2015 Rheinhessen Riesling Grosses Gewächs Part II -- Westhofen and Dalsheim: Groebe, Gutzler, Keller, and Wittmann

Here we are at the heart of some of the greatest vineyards in Germany with wines produced by some of the elite producers. As I’ve said many times, the Rheinhessen for some time now has been the most exciting region in Germany, and no producers are more thrilling than the trio of Groebe, Keller, and Wittmann — and Gutzler, too, has been coming on strong in recent vintages. (Continue reading here.)

Friday, September 30, 2016

2015 Pfalz Riesling Grosses Gewächs Part VIII -- Grosskarlbach, Laumersheim, Dirmstein, Zell: Knipser and Kuhn

Here we leave the Haardt Mountains and move into a different terroir, one that really is the same as the southern Rheinhessen, where the border is immediate — the difference in region is an old political boundary. If one’s reference has been the vineyards up against the Haardt Mountains further south in the Pfalz, your immediate reaction to the flatter vineyards here is that this can’t be prime vineyard territory. But experiencing the wines, one immediately becomes convinced otherwise. (Continue reading here.) 

Wednesday, September 28, 2016

2015 Pfalz Riesling Grosses Gewächs Part VII -- Bad Dürkheim, Ungstein, and Kallstadt: Fitz-Ritter, Kuhn, Pfeffingen, Rings, Schaefer

Moving further north from Forst, we transition to different terroirs, but still highly successful wines. Around Dürkheim and Ungstein, the wines seem to have a Mosel-like element with a bit more lightness and finesse to them. The Saumagen in Kallstadt has long been known for the Koehler-Ruprecht wines, but with that estate having left the VDP, two other producers, one (Rings) new to the VDP, are producing very good Saumagen. (Continue reading here.)

Tuesday, September 27, 2016

2015 Pfalz Riesling Grosses Gewächs and Equivalent Part VI -- Forst Freundstück, Jesuitengarten, and Kirchenstück: Acham-Magin, von Bassermann-Jordan, von Buhl, Mosbacher, Müller, and von Winning

The consensus view, mine included, is that Kirchenstück is the greatest vineyard in the Pfalz. And Jesuitengarten may well be the second greatest, although there is more room for debater there. And yet, except for Eugen Müller, these wines were good, but not dominating the way they normally would be. Tasted too early? That’s my guess, but we’ll have to wait and see. Several producers did not present their Kirchenstücks at the Wiesbaden tasting, notably, von Buhl, Mosbacher, and as with all their 2015s, Bürklin-Wolf. The Eugen Müller wines were not included in the GG tasting as the estate is not part of the VDP; I tasted them two days later at the estate in Forst. (Continue reading here.)