Thursday, June 30, 2016

Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan (Deidesheim, Pfalz) -- Part II: Other 2014s and a 2012 Spätburgunder

We start with four 2014 dry negociant wines — Weisser BurgunderGrauer BurgunderChardonnay, and Sauvignon Blanc. They are correct, but not exciting, no doubt because of the difficult conditions of the vintage, and not worth reviewing separately.

Turning to the estate wines: (Continue reading here.)

Sunday, June 26, 2016

Geheimer Rat Dr. von Bassermann-Jordan (Deidesheim, Pfalz) -- Part I: 2014 Rieslings and a Pair of Earlier Ones

One of the “Three B’s of the Pfalz”, this estate has great holdings and has consistently produced outstanding wines. Ulrich Mell has been the Kellermeister (winemaker) here since 1996.

Managing director Gunther Hauck said that one had to be very strict with the 2014 vintage to take out the rot, but then the vintage was easy to do. Harvesting began in mid-September, then had to stop for the rain and subsequent sorting for the rot before it could continue. Overall, yields are less than in a dry year.

I did find some unevenness of quality, though, primarily in non-Riesling wines (subject of a subsequent posting), perhaps not surprising given the scope of the operation and the fact that the vintage was not that easy, not withstanding Hauck’s comments. (Continue reading here.)

Friday, June 17, 2016

Domaine Alain Hudelot-Noëllat (Vosne-Romanée) and Charles van Canneyt (Beaune) -- 2013s Tasted from Bottle

Charles van Canneyt has been in charge of his grandfather’s estate, with its great holdings, for several years now, and continues to turn out top class wines. 

My description of the vintage at Hudelot-Noëllat and reviews from cask of these and other wines is here. (Continue reading here.)

Wednesday, June 15, 2016

Koehler-Ruprecht (Kallstadt, Pfalz) -- 2012s, 2013s, and 2014s

This estate, near the northern edge of the Pfalz, has long had a (deserved) cult following. It is best-known for its dry Rieslings, but other wines (including Pinot Noir, which I didn’t taste on this visit) can be outstanding, too.

The torch passed a few years ago from Bernd Philippi to Dominik Sona (although Philippi continues to consult), but the quality here remains as high as before. (Continue reading here.)

Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Domaine Chandon-de-Briailles (Savigny-les-Beaune) -- 2013s Tasted from Bottle

The area around Pernand-Vergelesses was one of the worst-hit by the late July hails in 2013. As a result, the estate, which normally uses all whole clusters in fermenting its reds, was forced to abandon that policy, as indicated in the reviews below. Nevertheless, the final wines, rare as they are, are extremely successful. (Continue reading here.)

Benjamin Leroux (Beaune) -- 2013s Tasted from Bottle

I first encountered Benjamin Leroux in the 1990s, when he was Pascal Marchand’s chief assistant at Domaine des Épeneaux (Comte Armand). When Marchand left on short notice just before the 1999 harvest, Benjamin took over there and continued to be responsible for the wines until fairly recently. Meantime, on the side, he began to develop his own estate and négociant business. 

My experience with Benjamin’s wines is that they are uniformly of excellent quality and worthy of your interest. (Continue reading here.)

Sunday, June 12, 2016

Sunday, June 5, 2016

Domaine Dujac (Morey-Saint-Denis) -- 2013s Tasted from Bottle

In the right hands, despite the difficulty of the year’s conditions, 2013 could produce great wines. Dujac is “in the right hands.”

Commentary on vintage conditions in 2013 at Dujac and reviews from cask of these wines and more are here. (Continue reading here.)

Rebholz (Siebeldingen, Pfalz) -- 2014 Part III: Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Spätburgunder, and a Mixed White

Rebholz is probably best-known for Riesling and Weisser Burgunder, but as these wines show, there is quality to be had from a wide variety of grapes (not shown here, but others I’ve had in the past also include Muskateller and Gewürztraminer), including two, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, that many do not associate with Germany. (Continue reading here.)

Thursday, June 2, 2016

Domaine G. Roumier (Chambolle-Musigny) -- 2013s Tasted from Bottle

Unsurprisingly, Christophe Roumier’s wines are among the best of the best in this vintage that is uneven but extremely promising from producers who got it right. 

Information about the vintage at Roumier and reviews of these and other wines from cask a year earlier than the wines below can be found here. (Continue reading here.)

Wednesday, June 1, 2016

Rebholz (Siebeldingen, Pfalz) -- 2014 Part II: Weisser Burgunder (Pinot Blanc)

Rebholz offers an astounding set of Pinot Blancs (Weisser Burgunders) at all levels. Those who don’t know Pinot Blanc from the Pfalz should make an effort to try some of these wines — they will be far different from anything you could have imagined.

Hans-Jörg Rebholz doesn’t raise any of his his Weisser Burugnders in barriques because he is looking for elegance in the wines. (Continue reading here.)