Monday, December 29, 2014

Domaine Robert GROFFIER Père et Fils -- 2013s from Cask

Domaine Robert GROFFIER (Morey-Saint-Denis)

2013s  from Cask

Nicolas Groffier received me on this visit; he is now the third generation in charge here since I began visiting. (He has actually been in charge for some years, but I have not visited the domaine for several years.)

He said that he began harvesting on October 6, and he did not find it necessary to do a triage. He said that he had very good maturity of the grapes and used quite a bit of whole clusters in the wines. He characterized the vintage as an excellent one for vin de garde (wines that will age). He chaptalized between 0.7 and 1.0º and said that 12.8-9º is what he was looking for. He characterized the wines as having lots of acidity, and the malolactic fermentations were very long, with some still going when I visited on November 17. The amount of new oak depends on the appellation – for example, the Chambertin-Clos-de-Bèze received 100% new oak, but the Bonnes-Mares only 30%.

Nicolas compared the vintage to 2005 for its purity and 1996 for its energy, although clearly in other ways, the vintages are different. Overall, he said, he produced a little more in 2013 than 2012 – 40-45 hl/ha for the village wine and 30-38 hl/ha for the premiers crus and grands crus.

2013 Bourgogne-Passetoutgrains
The nose here is floral. The mouth shows dense cassis fruit, a smooth texture, and good acidity with a touch of bitterness on the finish. This is good BPTG. (83-86)

2013 Bourgogne   Pinot Noir
The Bourgogne is smooth, round, and very dense with dark fruit. It is quite primary, but there is good material here. (84-88)

2013 Gevrey-Chambertin
The village Gevrey is from a single parcel in the Seuvrées climat – just below Mazoyères-Chambertin and the route nationale and just north of Morey-Saint-Denis. 70% whole clusters in this wine. It has spiciness in the nose that I attribute to the stems. The mouth is spicy, medium-weight, with dark fruits. It is mouth-coating and dense, with tannins present, but they are round. On the whole, though, this wine needs more time in cask to develop. (85-89)

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – Les Hauts Doix
Les Hauts-Doix is a vineyard down slope from Les Amoureuses. Nicolas used no new wood and no whole clusters here – his intent is to make a simpler style of wine here – easier to drink and reaching maturity sooner. Vines average about 35 years old. The wine is dense and more forward in its dark fruit than the Gevrey. It is round and shows less tannin than the Gevrey and features good acidity. (85-89)

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – Les Sentiers
Sentiers is a vineyard down slope from Bonnes-Mares and on the border with Morey-Saint-Denis. This wine is made with 40% new oak and 70% whole clusters. The nose is floral with some oak hints. The mouth is medium-weight and seems more elegant and less extracted than the preceding wines. There is good length here and the fruit is redder (although dark fruits are also present). Some tannin on the finish. (88-92)

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – Les Amoureuses
Groffier owns more Amoureuses than anyone else. The nose is floral and deep with dark fruit. The mouth is medium-weight and elegant with some roses to go with red and dark fruits. 20% whole clusters here, 40% new oak. (92-95)

2013 Bonnes-Mares
The nose here is relatively closed, but what shows is complex with floral and blueberry elements. The mouth is smooth with complex dark (blueberries, especially) fruits mixed with spice, vanilla, and earth, and also with finesse, density, and length. 70% whole clusters for this wine and 30% new oak. The holding is next to that of Roumier and runs the entire way from bottom to top. (92-96)

2013 Chambertin-Clos-de-Bèze

The nose here is perfume. The mouth shows dark plums, and it is rich, intense, long, and round with tannins. I hold a little judgment in reserve simply because I don’t find much of the terroir of Clos-de-Bèze here at this time, but it is undoubtedly a most impressive and enjoyable wine. 70% whole clusters here, 100% new oak. (92-95)