Sunday, December 28, 2014

Domaine Henri GOUGES -- 2013s from Cask and a 2012 from Bottle

Domaine Henri GOUGES (Nuits-Saint-Georges)

2013s  from Cask

Gregory Gouges said that botrytis began appearing in the vineyards on August 15 with an expected harvest start date of October 1 -- an ominous sign. Fortunately, the botrytis for the most part stopped, permitting Gouges to wait until October 5 to begin the harvest. Triage eliminated about 15-20% of the harvest. He said that without this level of triage, he would not have been able to make wines of the quality that he did. The overall quantity is about like 2012 (a year in which no triage was necessary here), that is, quite small.

Gregory said that there was some chaptalization, with some cuvées chaptalized as much as 0.5º -- very modest compared to other producers I visited. All grapes were destemmed. Unlike the majority of the estates that I visited, malolactic fermentations here were not late. Gregory expects to bottle in late winter or early spring 2015.

2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges
This wine features an attractive, spicy nose. The mouth is medium-weight and pure with precision, lightness, and freshness. (88-91)

2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru – Aux Chaignots
The Chaignots is medium-weight with dark fruit and some spice and balsamic qualities and a smooth texture that is cool, and indeed almost steely. (88-91)

2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru – Les Chênes Carteaux
At one time, this wine was an exclusivity of the United States, but now, the U.S. takes only about half the production. The wine is salty with dark fruit, medium-length, and a smooth texture. Some reduction may well be causing me to underestimate it here. (88-92)

2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru – Clos des Porêts Saint-Georges
This wine is light with dark fruits and some tar. The wine shows more tannin than the foregoing wines, but they are well-integrated. (88-92)

2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru – Les Pruliers
The Pruliers is salty and has dark fruits with plenty of structure and more body than the Clos des Porêts. The tannins are notable, but round. (89-93)

2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru – Les Vaucrains
The nose here is balsamic. The mouth shows structure and density, but this is not a full expression of the minerality of Vaucrains at this time. 18 hl/ha here. (89-92)

2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru – Les Saint-Georges
The Saint-Georges has smoky dark fruit aromas, making for a most complex nose. The mouth is full, round, smooth, and deep with dark fruits and some spiciness. The wine coats the mouth, the tannins here are round, and the wine has a voluptuous texture. On this day, the wine shows clearly above all the others in the cellar. (92-96)

A 2012  from Bottle

2012 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru – Les Pruliers

Unsurprisingly, the tannins are more evident here than in the 2013 version of this wine, but they are not overwhelming. The wine is clear and pure with dark fruit. It needs 10-12 years in the bottle, but should make a very typical and good Pruliers. 92+/A