Domaine du Comte LIGER-BELAIR -- 2013s from Cask and Bottle
Domaine du Comte LIGER-BELAIR (Vosne-Romanée)
2013s
from Cask and Bottle
Louis-Michel
Liger-Belair said that he began harvesting on October 5. He had to do some
triage and overall yields were 22 hl/ha (in 2014, they rose to about 32 hl/ha).
As in every year, he chaptalized. Whole clusters were used in varying amounts
for the wines. Malolactic fermentations were late – usually they finish in
March and April, but for this vintage they finished over summer 2014.
Plenty
of wines of quality here.
2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru – Clos des Grandes
Vignes blanc
We
start with the white that was added to the estate a few years ago. Louis-Michel
has done quite a bit of work to improve the vineyard; he believes it has been
misunderstood in the past and not given the best of treatment. The wine shows
golden apple fruit with richness and good underlying acidity. It is quite
expressive. (88-91)
2013 Vosne-Romanée
The
village Vosne shows red fruit and minerality in a round body. The wine has good
freshness and good penetration. It is excellent for a village wine. (90-93)
2013 Vosne-Romanée La Colombière
The
fruit here is darker than in the regular village Vosne, and there is also more
body. The wine also shows good structure and freshness. (90-94)
2013 Vosne-Romanée Clos du Château
This
wine was bottled on 25 September. It is smooth, long, and round with a texture
that is almost oily. The fruit here is dark, but not as precise as that for the
other two village Vosnes. 90/A
2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru – Les Chaumes
This
is a most attractive wine for its dark, crystalline fruit. (90-93)
2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru – Les Suchots
The
Suchots has dark, pure fruit with Suchots earthiness, minerality, and
roundness. It is excellent example from this vineyard. (91-95)
2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru – Les Petits Monts
Liger-Belair’s
Petit Monts is at the southern limit of the appellation, next to Reignots and
by Véronique Drouhin’s Petits Monts. The wine is full with dark cherry fruit,
minerality, richness, and roundness, but it is not explosive as, for example,
Drouhin’s often is. (91-94)
2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru – Aux Cras
Liger-Belair’s
plot is just south of that of Lamarche (both previously had been part of a
single ownership). The wine features ripe, pure dark fruit and a bit of spice.
It is long and round. (91-95)
2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru – Aux Brulées
The
Brulées is lighter in the nose than the Cras with some stoniness. The mouth is
light, airy, and nervy with dark fruit. (91-94)
2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru – Clos des
Grandes Vignes
As
mentioned with the review of the white Grandes Vignes, Louis-Michel believes
that this property has more potential than it has shown in the past and has
been doing work in the vineyard to improve the wines produced. The nose here is
stony. The mouth is light but dense with good penetration to the stony red and
dark berry fruit. (91-94)
2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru – Aux Reignots
Liger-Belair’s
portion of the vineyard is the southern part, running from the border with La
Romanée at the bottom to the top of Reignots. The 2013 is airy, as usual, with
roundness and fruit that is darker than usual. It is very smooth and overall
outstanding. (93-96)
2013 Echézeaux
This
wine is from the Cruots and Champs Traversins climats of Echézeaux. The wine is spicy, deep, and dark in the
nose. The mouth is medium-weight and airy with dark fruit. It does not show the
roundness of the Reignots and is more discreet in its dark, spicy fruit. Plenty
of finesse here. (93-96)
2013 La Romanée
Not
surprisingly because of the proximity of location, the nose here recalls that
of Reignots. This wine is all about depth, harmony, and finesse. One has to
have patience here, but it should prove to be a great wine, fully worthy of La
Romanée’s position on the legendary hill of Vosne-Romanée. (95-99)
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