Thursday, December 25, 2014

Domaine DIGIOIA-ROYER -- 2013s from Cask and Bottle and a Pair of 2012s from Bottle

Domaine DIGIOIA-ROYER (Chambolle-Musigny)

2013s  from Cask and Bottle

Still not yet well-known and only in existence for about 15 years, this small estate nevertheless is turning out good to excellent wines in every vintage. Considering the small size of the estate, distribution in the U.S. and U.K. has been quite good, and so these are wines to keep an eye out for.

Harvesting here began on September 28 and finished on October 6.

2013 Bourgogne   Chardonnay
This wine was raised in cask, but not new. It shows some fatness, but also richness and minerality. It could improve with a bit more time. 86(+)/B

2013 Bourgogne rosé
Despite the small harvest, Michel Digioia did make this rosé from a bleeding of some vats. I found it light, a bit fat, and less interesting than the other wines here, perhaps unsurprisingly. (82-85)

In most vintages, there is a Bourgogne-Passetoutgrains at this estate, but there was no (read insufficient) Gamay to make such a wine in 2013.

2013 Bourgogne  Pinot Noir
Half of this wine is raised in oak, the rest in cuve. It is a pretty wine with red fruits, good balance, freshness, and lightness, but it is simple, as one expects from a Bourgogne. (84-87)

2013 Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes de Nuits
This wine is denser and more serious than the Bourgogne with more structure to its dark fruit. The vines are in Concoeur and raised 2/3 in new wood. (85-89)

2013 Chambolle-Musigny
The floral nose here is followed by red cherry flavors with sensuality and tenderness. There is good length here. It is a very pretty wine. 22% new oak. The vines for this wine are about 55-60 years old. (88-92)

2013 Chambolle-Musigny  vieilles vignes
Since the regular Chambolle from 55-60 year-old vines is not vieilles vignes, you are justified in wondering what does constitute old vines?  These vines, in the excellent Frémières climat are 80-85 years old. The wine is tenser with darker fruit than the regular Chambole and greater density and length. As with the village Chambolle, 22% new oak. Here’s premier cru quality in a village wine package. (90-93)

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – Les Gruenchers
This wine is lighter and more nervy than the vieilles vignes with transparent red fruits, some minerality, and some tension. The vines here are 28 years old. (89-92)

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – Les Groseilles
This wine is tender with a fair amount of body. It is calmer than the Gruenchers and shows less minerality to its red cherry fruit. The vines here are 72-75 years old. (89-92)

2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges
This wine is from the Charmois climat; Jean Grivot has a bottling from there, too. The wine is tender for Nuits and smooth with dark fruits and a bit of red. It shows good length with round tannins. The vines here are about 35 years old. (87-91)

Two 2012s from Bottle

In 2012, yields here were only about 60% of a normal harvest.

2012 Chambolle-Musigny
At first, this wine has a strange celery seed aroma, but with a little exposure to air, it becomes walnuts. The mouth is very concentrated and powerful – a real 2012. It is closed with dark fruits and smoothness. The acidity seems moderate and there is some tannin showing. 89(+)/B

2012 Chambolle-Musigny   vieilles vignes

This wine is round, broad, and deep with plenty of tannin showing. The fruit is dark. This wine needs time, but it shows excellent material. 91/A-