Friday, December 26, 2014

Domaine Alain HUDELOT-NOELLAT -- 2013s from Cask

Domaine Alain HUDELOT-NOELLAT (Vougeot)

2013s  from Cask

For many years, there was much speculation about what would happen to this estate and its great holdings when Alain Hudelot passed on, as it seemed that no family member was interested in taking over the domaine. But in the mid-2000s, grandson Charles van Canneyt committed to taking up the reins and undertook studies at the University of Dijon. In 2007, Charles did an apprenticeship with Jean-Louis Trapet in Gevrey-Chambertin, and beginning in 2008 took over the domaine. The wines had already been at a high level, but they have really taken off in the last few years.

Charles said that harvesting began on October 5. Although he had a sorting table, he said that it almost was not needed because of the quality and uniformity of the grapes. Except for the Bourgogne, the wines are made with 20-25% whole clusters. Chaptalization was less than 1º. Malolactic fermentations were late, and when I visited on November 13, the wines (with the exception of the Chambolle-Charmes) had not yet been racked (usually racking takes place shortly after the finish of malolactic fermentation). Charles was looking to the end of November to rack and he would then bottle in December and January.

Plenty of wines of quality here.

2013 Bourgogne   Pinot Noir
This wine comes from three hectares of vines scattered across eighteen parcels, all by Chambolle-Musigny. The wine is pure and round with red fruits and good balance. (85-88)

2013 Chambolle-Musigny
The Chambolle has dark fruit aromas. The mouth is smooth with liveliness, density, and freshness to its dark fruit. (88-92)

2013 Vosne-Romanée
The village Vosne is not quite as broad as the Chambolle but shows good density and lovely freshness with finesse to its dark fruit. This is from the Basses Maizières lieu-dit. (89-92)

2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges   Les Bas de Combes
This wine is denser and more powerful and rustic than the Vosne with a little spice to go along with its dark plum fruit. (88-91)

2013 Vougeot 1er Cru –Les Petits Vougeots
The Petits Vougeots shows good acidity with black raspberry fruit that is lively and has good density. There is good grip to this wine, too. (90-93)

2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru – Aux Murgers
The Murgers is dense, pure, deep, dark, and round with tannins. It is long and penetrating in the mouth and shows the finesse of the vintage. It is a superb effort. (92-95)

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – Les Charmes
The Chambolle-Charmes has dark fruit and is pure, smooth, and firm, but not hard. (90-94)

2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru – Les Beaux Monts
The Beaux Monts shows minerality in the nose. The mouth is mineral and pure with red berry fruit. The wine is firm, airy, and long with excellent freshness and precision. It is an excellent rendition of Beaux Monts. (92-95)

2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru – Les Suchots
The Suchots is from the bottom part of the vineyard. The oldest vines here are more than 100 years old. This wine is more closed than the Beaux Monts with dark fruit, freshness, lightness, and excellent tension. (91-95)

2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru – Aux Malconsorts
The Malconsorts is less fresh in the nose than the Suchots. The mouth shows good minerality with violet and lavender elements to its dark fruit and lightness in the mouth. But on this particular day, the wine doesn’t hang together as well as the other premiers crus – I probably am underrating it here. (89-93)

2013 Clos-Vougeot
The Clos-Vougeot has typical black raspberry fruit, good finesse and penetration, lightness, length, and precision. (92-96)

2013 Romanée-Saint-Vivant
The Romanée-Saint-Vivant features spicy red fruit that is pure, long, deep, and harmonious. There some minerality, and good sensuality and finesse here. (94-98)

2013 Richebourg

Last, the Richebourg has dark and spicy fruit and is rich, sensual, and exotic with freshness, precision, and finesse. This is an excellent exemplar of the Richebourg terroir. (94-98)