Domaine Alain HUDELOT-NOELLAT -- 2013s from Cask
Domaine Alain HUDELOT-NOELLAT (Vougeot)
2013s
from Cask
For
many years, there was much speculation about what would happen to this estate
and its great holdings when Alain Hudelot passed on, as it seemed that no
family member was interested in taking over the domaine. But in the mid-2000s,
grandson Charles van Canneyt committed to taking up the reins and undertook
studies at the University of Dijon. In 2007, Charles did an apprenticeship with
Jean-Louis Trapet in Gevrey-Chambertin, and beginning in 2008 took over the
domaine. The wines had already been at a high level, but they have really taken
off in the last few years.
Charles
said that harvesting began on October 5. Although he had a sorting table, he
said that it almost was not needed because of the quality and uniformity of the
grapes. Except for the Bourgogne, the wines are made with 20-25% whole
clusters. Chaptalization was less than 1º. Malolactic fermentations were late,
and when I visited on November 13, the wines (with the exception of the Chambolle-Charmes)
had not yet been racked (usually racking takes place shortly after the finish
of malolactic fermentation). Charles was looking to the end of November to rack
and he would then bottle in December and January.
Plenty
of wines of quality here.
2013 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
This
wine comes from three hectares of vines scattered across eighteen parcels, all
by Chambolle-Musigny. The wine is pure and round with red fruits and good
balance. (85-88)
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
The
Chambolle has dark fruit aromas. The mouth is smooth with liveliness, density,
and freshness to its dark fruit. (88-92)
2013 Vosne-Romanée
The
village Vosne is not quite as broad as the Chambolle but shows good density and
lovely freshness with finesse to its dark fruit. This is from the Basses
Maizières lieu-dit. (89-92)
2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Bas de Combes
This
wine is denser and more powerful and rustic than the Vosne with a little spice
to go along with its dark plum fruit. (88-91)
2013 Vougeot 1er Cru –Les Petits Vougeots
The
Petits Vougeots shows good acidity with black raspberry fruit that is lively
and has good density. There is good grip to this wine, too. (90-93)
2013 Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru – Aux Murgers
The
Murgers is dense, pure, deep, dark, and round with tannins. It is long and
penetrating in the mouth and shows the finesse of the vintage. It is a superb
effort. (92-95)
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – Les Charmes
The
Chambolle-Charmes has dark fruit and is pure, smooth, and firm, but not hard.
(90-94)
2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru – Les Beaux Monts
The
Beaux Monts shows minerality in the nose. The mouth is mineral and pure with
red berry fruit. The wine is firm, airy, and long with excellent freshness and
precision. It is an excellent rendition of Beaux Monts. (92-95)
2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru – Les Suchots
The
Suchots is from the bottom part of the vineyard. The oldest vines here are more
than 100 years old. This wine is more closed than the Beaux Monts with dark
fruit, freshness, lightness, and excellent tension. (91-95)
2013 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru – Aux Malconsorts
The
Malconsorts is less fresh in the nose than the Suchots. The mouth shows good
minerality with violet and lavender elements to its dark fruit and lightness in
the mouth. But on this particular day, the wine doesn’t hang together as well
as the other premiers crus – I
probably am underrating it here. (89-93)
2013 Clos-Vougeot
The
Clos-Vougeot has typical black raspberry fruit, good finesse and penetration,
lightness, length, and precision. (92-96)
2013 Romanée-Saint-Vivant
The
Romanée-Saint-Vivant features spicy red fruit that is pure, long, deep, and
harmonious. There some minerality, and good sensuality and finesse here.
(94-98)
2013 Richebourg
Last,
the Richebourg has dark and spicy fruit and is rich, sensual, and exotic with
freshness, precision, and finesse. This is an excellent exemplar of the
Richebourg terroir. (94-98)
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