Domaine Simon BIZE et Fils: 2013s from Cask and one from bottle
Domaine Simon BIZE et Fils (Savigny-les-Beaune)
2013s from Cask and Bottle
This
was the saddest vintage. Of course
the estate suffered the serious vineyard losses due to hail as did so many on
the Côte de Beaune, but much more importantly, just as the harvest was set to
get underway, Patrick Bize suffered a heart attack while driving and crashed
his car. He was in a coma for three weeks as a result of the crash and finally
died later in October.
Patrick
was greatly loved and esteemed throughout Burgundy, and for me, too, he was a
favorite visit for his warmth, humor, honesty, and overall joie de vivre (and as
well, of course, the quality of the wines). Patrick’s family, headed by his
wife Chisa and sister Marielle Grivot-Bize, will carry on the estate. Patrick had been intending to retirement and assembled a team to continue. In short, there is no reason for concern about the future of this longstanding estate of very high quality.
As
for 2013, there is very little wine (7-10 hl/ha in Savigny!), not just because
of the hail, but because a severe triage was necessary and because there was so
little juice in the grapes that made up the wines. Many of the wines were not
available to taste because of the small quantities or the states of the wines.
The
harvest began on October 3 in the wake of Patrick’s accident. One can well
imagine that everyone was shell-shocked. This is one estate where stems are
used to the extent possible, but because of conditions in 2013, the only wines
with whole clusters are the Savigny-Marconnets, -Serpentières, -Guettes, and
Latricières-Chambertin. Alcoholic fermentations were quick, and malolactic
fermentations were “normal” (which, in my experience, is later here than in
many other cellars). Alcohols are about 12.5%, and for the premiers crus, about 12.7-12.8%.
While
holding on to some of the other vintages allows them to improve and last so
splendidly, the wines of this vintage are to drink young. I visited on November
3, and bottling was to begin three weeks later.
We
start with the reds:
2013 Savigny-les-Beaune Les Bourgeots
This
wine has pure aromas and is spicy and racy in its red fruit with excellent
concentration. (87-90)
2013 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru – Aux Fourneaux
This
wine is smooth and round with red fruit and more breadth than the Bourgeots,
but not any greater complexity. (86-90)
2013 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru – Aux Vergelesses
The
Vergelesses was very light without much penetration, although it was smooth and
velvety. I could not get enough of a bead on it to evaluate it.
2013 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru – Aux Serpentières
The
Serpentières is spicy, medium-weight, and smooth with red fruit, especially
strawberries. (86-89)
2013 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru – Aux Guettes
Bize’s
Guettes shows spicy red and dark fruits with more depth, penetration, and body
than the Serpentières. (88-92)
2013 Latricières-Chambertin
The
Latricières shows more depth, body, and dark fruit with good minerality. This
wine shows more aging potential than the preceding ones. (90-93)
Switching
to the whites:
2013 Savigny-les-Beaune blanc
This
wine is round, glossy, and smooth with seemingly low acidity. It appears to be
fully ready to drink. (85-89)
After
the tour of the cellar, from bottle:
2013 Bourgogne Champlains blanc
Usually,
about 5-10% of the Champlains is made up of Pinot Beurot (Pinot Gris), but
given the problems of 2013, about 40-50% of this vintage is Pinot Beurot. The
nose is mineral, and the mouth shows lime blossoms, finesse, length, and
minerality, making for a most attractive wine. I’d drink it over the next 5-6
years. 88/A
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