Friday, December 5, 2014

Domaine CAMUS-BRUCHON: 2013s from Barrel, Some 2012s from Bottle

Domaine CAMUS-BRUCHON (Savigny-les-Beaune)

2013s from Cask

I normally visit four or five estates in Savigny-les-Beaune. This one is the least well-known of them, but that is not due to lesser quality of the wines. Vines here are very old and well-sited, and the wines can be excellent values should you manage to come across them.
Guillaume Camus said that he was badly hit by the July 23 hail, and as a result had to do a large triage at harvest. For part of the vines, he removed the leaves to allow greater exposure to the sun. Harvesting began about 27 September. Unlike many other cellars, malolactic fermentations here were fairly rapid – almost all had finished by the beginning of the summer through early August, even though they began late. Given the conditions of 2013, all grapes were destemmed. There is no new oak for any of the wines except the Narbantons. In spite of that, harvest lasted nine days instead of the usual 5½-6½ because of the sorting that was necessary. Overall, the estate produced about 30% of a normal harvest; to give you an idea, total production was 60 barrels in 2013; in 2009, estate-bottled production was 200 barrels and additional barrels were sold to negociants. The Grands Liards (2 barrels) and Lavières (1½ barrels) are in such small quantities that they will not be exported.

2013 Savigny-les-Beaune blanc
This wine showed extremely well. It is very pretty, precise, and focused with lime fruit, minerality, and good acidity. (89-92)

2013 Bourgogne Pinot Noir
This wine, too, is very pretty, precise, and focused with red cherry fruit, excellent concentration, acidity, and great purity. Well above its pay grade and a wine to seek out for those who want the best value for their money. (88-91)

2013 Chorey-les-Beaune
This wine was relatively spared from the hail – about 60% of normal production here. This wine is from grapes that are about 60 years old. The nose shows white pepper and red fruits. The mouth is concentrated for Chorey with red fruits, especially cherries, and some tannins. (85-88)

2013 Savigny-les-Beaune   “Reine Joly”
Due to the very small crop, all the village Savigny wine except for the old vine portions from Pimentiers and Grands Liards have been combined into this wine in 2013. Reine Joly is the name of Guillaume’s great-great-great grandmother, who bought land in Savigny in the 1850s that effectively founded the estate. The wine is concentrated, pure, and focused with good acidity and power, dark fruit, and a tannic backbone. (88-91)

2013 Savigny-les-Beaune   Pimentiers
This is from vines planted in 1929. The wine is medium-weight, round, and tannic with red cherry fruit and a fair amount of power. (88-92)

2013 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru – Aux Gravains
Vines here were planted in 1975. The wine is dense, concentrated, and features dark fruit. It is harmonious and long. (90-93)

2013 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru – Les Narbantons
As mentioned above, this is the only wine in 2013 to have any new oak – 25% in this instance. The wine is round and smooth with dark cherry fruit, good purity, minerality, and some concentration. It is attractive and should age well. (89-93)

2013 Beaune 1er Cru – Clos du Roi
The Beaune-Clos du Roi is round with good length and some tannins; it will make a good, solid wine. (88-92)

2013 Pommard 1er Cru – Les Arvelets
The vines here are near a wall, which helped shelter the vines somewhat from the hail. The wine has dark cherry fruit with round tannins. The wine is medium-weight and shows some elegance for Pommard. (89-92)

2012s from Bottle

2012 Bourgogne
No new wood on this wine. It is medium-light and smooth with dark fruit and good concentration. It is not as exuberant as some wines from the vintage, though. I’d expect this to drink best between 2016 and 2026. 87/A-

2012 Savigny-les-Beaune   Pimentiers
This wine is rich, deep, and harmonious with dark fruit that is almost sappy in texture and good minerality. 25-30% new wood on this wine. I’d look to 2015-3032 for prime drinking. 90(+)/A

2012 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru – Aux Gravains
25-30% new wood here and 30% whole clusters. The wine shows some stoniness and some spiciness in the nose. The mouth features dark cherry fruit, some tannins, and attractive roundness. I’d look to 2022-2042 for best drinking. 91(+)/A-

2012 Savigny-les-Beaune 1er Cru – Les Narbantons

25-30% new wood here. The wine is closed in the nose, but the mouth shows the roundness of Narbantons with dark fruit and a bit of spiciness. There is very good material here. I’d look to 2012-2042 for prime drinking. 91/A-