Domaine FOURRIER: 2013s from Cask
Domaine FOURRIER (Gevrey-Chambertin)
2013s from Cask
Jean-Marie
Fourrier said that he prefers his 2013s to his 2012s for the formers’ sweetness
of red fruit – something that he said was unexpected from an October harvest. My review of his 2012s from cask is here. My review of some of his 2012s from bottle is here.
The
first three treatments in the vineyard had to be by hand in 2013; the key to
success in the vintage, he said, was the ability to protect against oïdium. If
one was able to do that, the leaves remained green and could profit from the
good weather in September. Late in that month, malic acidity fell very quickly
opening the door to botrytis, and so he began harvesting on October 2 and
finished on October 7. As always here, grapes were entirely destemmed;
Jean-Marie concedes that perhaps 5-7% of the stems are not eliminated by the
destemmer, but he said it is not his choice to include them. Fermentations were
“super rapid” in 2013 (and 2014), and so malolactic fermentations went from
April to June , and by the time I tasted here on October 31, the wines had all
been put in stainless steel to stabilize before bottling, not to finish malos
as was the case with the 2012s the year before.
2013 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Solon
This
wine shows stony red berry fruit in the nose and mouth and is smooth and long.
It is delicious will provide excellent drinking young. (88-91)
2013 Chambolle-Musigny
The
nose and mouth feature dark berry fruit. The wine is smooth, light, and very
round and elegant – what one would expect from Chambolle. (87-91)
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin
This
wine has dark berry fruit that is more mineral and wilder than that of the
Chambolle. It is medium-weight. (88-91)
2013 Vougeot 1er Cru – Petits Vougeot
Dark
plum fruit in the nose and mouth, good grip, depth, and sensuality in the
mouth. (88-91)
2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – Les Gruenchers
This
wine is medium-full and smooth with black raspberry fruit. It is attractive,
light on the palate, sensual, and intense. (90-94)
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru – Les Cherbaudes
The
wine shows red currant fruit and is round and smooth – less nervy than usual,
although minerality is there. The wine is light on the palate. (90-93)
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru – Les Goulots
The
fruit here is strawberry and the wine is medium-weight, dense, and even almost
a bit gritty. (89-92)
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru – Les Champeaux
The
fruit here is dark and fresh and the texture is smooth with round tannins,
breadth, and depth. (91-95)
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru – Combe aux Moînes
This
wine is broad and smooth with strawberry fruit and good density. (91-94)
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru – Clos
Saint-Jacques
This
wine is dense and mineral with red fruits, but the gaminess that characterizes
Clos Saint-Jacques is not present here. (91-94)
2013 Griotte-Chambertin
This
wine showed griotte cherry fruit and was dense with tannins, but not very open
on the day I tasted it. (92-96)
2013 Echézeaux
There
was only time enough left to taste one of Fourrier’s negociant wines, this
Echézeaux, although looking around the cellar I could see that he had small
amounts of many of the other Chambertin grands crus. This wine is dark, pure,
and crystalline – more precise than the Gevreys. (92-96)
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