Réyanne and Pascal BOULEY: 2013s from Cask and Bottle
Domaine Réyane et Pascal BOULEY (Volnay)
2013s
from Cask and Bottle
This estate is located next to the church in
downtown Volnay and has a total of 9 ha of vines spread over Beaune, Pommard,
Volnay, Monthélie, and Saint-Romain (this last being in white, and a wine I
don’t believe I’ve ever seen). Alas, just listing the villages tells you that
the vines were in the heart of the hail territory. Overall, the estate did 1/3
a normal harvest; 2014 was but little better, being between a half and
one-third of a normal harvest. As this was my first visit in Volnay on this
trip, I was a little apprehensive, but what wine there is turned out to be
fine, and indeed very good expressions of their respective terroirs. This
estate is a very good source for Volnay and other nearby villages, especially
as the best-known names in that region have become increasingly expensive.
Harvesting began here on 2 October. Grapes were
entirely destemmed. Malolactic fermentations were quite late.
2013
Bourgogne rouge
From bottle, this wine comes from vines located on
both sides of the route nationale.
The nose features fresh, dark Pinot Noir fruit. The mouth is pure and fresh
with good acidity and elegance. 87/A-
2013
Monthélie Aux Fournereaux
This climat
is on the southern slope of Monthélie, just below the premier cru portion of the Les Clous vineyard. It features fresh
fruit in the nose and mouth, especially dark plums, and should be quite
approachable early. (86-89)
2013
Monthélie 1er Cru – Les Clous
This wine has more structure and acidity and is a
bit redder in its fruit than the Aux Fournereaux. It is light and fine, but
will need more time than the Aux Fournereaux to develop. (86-90)
2013
Volnay
The village Volnay has red berry fruit and is
smooth with finesse, elegance, and good acidity. It is a very good example of
what people expect from Volnay. (87-90)
2013
Pommard
The Pommard is a bit darker than the Volnay in its
fruit. The acidity seems high, but not sharp. However, this wine is perhaps not
quite as pure as the others. (86-89)
2013
Volnay 1er Cru – Les Robardelles
The nose here is floral. The mouth is pure,
precise, and almost crystalline with red and dark berry fruit and overall
finesse. This is an excellent effort. (89-93)
2013
Volnay 1er Cru – Le Ronceret
This wine shows finesse similar to that of the
Robardelles, but is not quite as crisp and is a bit more flowing. Nice
freshness here. (89-92)
2013
Volnay 1er Cru – Grand Champs
This is the sole premier cru anyone produces from this climat, the rest of it being classified as village. The wine is
crisp and pure with dark fruit, elegance, and a bit more structure than the two
preceding wines. (89-92)
2013
Volnay 1er Cru – Santenots
The lieu-dit
here is Les Santenots Blancs, and it is located just above Lafon’s Santenots-du-Milieu.
The nose here is round and less sharp than those of the preceding premiers crus. The mouth is rounder,
too, with red fruit and more structure, but still elegance for Santenots
(something that I noticed in this vintage for Santenots in general). (90-93)
2013
Volnay 1er Cru – Les Champans
This wine shows the roundness and fleshiness of
Champans with some structure to its dark fruits, especially plums. (90-93)
2013
Volnay 1er Cru – Clos des Chênes
The nose here is floral. The mouth is stony and
intense, as is typical of Clos des Chênes, with finesse, firmness, and dark
fruits. It is an excellent finish to the 2013s in this cellar. (91-94)
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