Domaine Jean-Marc and Thomas BOULEY: 2013s from Cask
Domaine Jean-Marc and Thomas BOULEY (Volnay)
2013s
from Cask
Thomas Bouley is one of the leading lights of a
new generation taking over domaines in Burgundy. I am surprised when I speak
with those in the trade how many are still not aware of the wines here. If you
have access to them, make your move now – in a few years these will be wines
that everyone is seeking out and probably at significantly higher prices. There
are some great vineyards here.
Harvesting began here on 3 October. Grapes were
entirely destemmed. Malolactic fermentations were quite late. Thomas has been
using stems in some of his wines, and did so in 2013, as indicated below.
Malolactic fermentations finished in the spring. New oak varies from 15 to 30%
in 2013. Thomas expects to begin bottling in the spring.
2013
Bourgogne rouge
This wine is round and quite soft (pH is above 3.5
on this wine) with dark fruit, but nothing that really stands out to me.
(83-86)
2013 Bourgogne
– Hautes Côtes de Beaune
This wine is from red soils on the plateau above
Volnay. The wine is round and mineral with finesse and dark fruits. (86-89)
2013
Volnay
This wine is round and voluptuous with dark
fruits. (85-89)
2013
Volnay Clos de la Cave
The vineyard is located quite high on the slope
with plenty of little pebbles and almost no clay. As a result, it gives a wine
with plenty of finesse. This wine shows more structure than the previous wine
with lightness. It is a pretty wine with dark plum and other dark fruits. It is
almost lacy. (88-92)
2013
Volnay vieilles vignes
The vineyard here is at the foot of the slope. The soils are red, but very shallow, and one reaches
the rock beneath very quickly. The wine shows more intensity than the Clos de
la Cave, but it remains very fine, nonetheless. The fruit is dark and very
expressive. This is above village class. (90-93)
2013
Pommard
The Pommard is primarily from the Vaumuriens
vineyard, above Rugiens. It shows dark fruit and structure, with not of the
voluptuousness of the previous wines. There is good energy here and structure
too, but also finesse in the context of Pommard. This wine, too, is above its
class. (89-93)
2013 Beaune
1er Cru – Les Renversées
This wine comes from the foot of the slope in
southern Beaune, right by the road that goes up to Bouze-les-Beaune. 40% whole
clusters in this wine. The wine has dark fruit and structure, although it is
fleshier than the Pommard. (88-92)
2013
Volnay 1er Cru – Les Carelles
This wine is from 16 year-old vines located just
below the chapel in Volnay. It is pure, round, and elegant with some
fleshiness, and structure that kicks in at the end from the chalk soils. The
wine resembles a Volnay-Champans until the chalky finish kicks in. (90-93)
2013
Volnay 1er Cru – Clos des Chênes
Bouley owns two parcels here, both on the
Monthélie side of the vineyard.
The vines are old. 40% whole cluster fruit in this wine. The wine is
dark, stony, lean, and tightly-wound – very much Clos des Chênes in its
profile. The fruit is dark with lots of minerality. This is outstanding wine.
(92-95)
2013 Pommard
1er Cru – Les Fremiers
This wine is from 40 year-old vines located next
to the Pommard-Croix Noires vineyard. Here, too, 40% whole cluster fruit. The
wine shows finesse for Pommard with some spice to its dark fruit. There is
lightness to the mouth and fine tannins for Pommard. (89-93)
2013
Pommard 1er Cru – Les Rugiens
The vines here are located in an old quarry in the
upper part of the vineyard on white soils. The grapes were entirely destemmed
in 2013. The nose has typical Rugiens smokiness. The mouth is fine for Rugiens
but with depth and power lurking behind. It is quite individual for Rugiens
because of the exposure directly to the rock from the quarry. The wine is long,
dark, and pure with a bit of violet showing through. (91-95)
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