Sunday, December 7, 2014

Domaine Jean-Marc and Thomas BOULEY: 2013s from Cask

Domaine Jean-Marc and Thomas  BOULEY (Volnay)
2013s from Cask

Thomas Bouley is one of the leading lights of a new generation taking over domaines in Burgundy. I am surprised when I speak with those in the trade how many are still not aware of the wines here. If you have access to them, make your move now – in a few years these will be wines that everyone is seeking out and probably at significantly higher prices. There are some great vineyards here.

Harvesting began here on 3 October. Grapes were entirely destemmed. Malolactic fermentations were quite late. Thomas has been using stems in some of his wines, and did so in 2013, as indicated below. Malolactic fermentations finished in the spring. New oak varies from 15 to 30% in 2013. Thomas expects to begin bottling in the spring.

2013 Bourgogne rouge
This wine is round and quite soft (pH is above 3.5 on this wine) with dark fruit, but nothing that really stands out to me. (83-86)

2013 Bourgogne – Hautes Côtes de Beaune
This wine is from red soils on the plateau above Volnay. The wine is round and mineral with finesse and dark fruits. (86-89)

2013 Volnay
This wine is round and voluptuous with dark fruits. (85-89)

2013 Volnay   Clos de la Cave
The vineyard is located quite high on the slope with plenty of little pebbles and almost no clay. As a result, it gives a wine with plenty of finesse. This wine shows more structure than the previous wine with lightness. It is a pretty wine with dark plum and other dark fruits. It is almost lacy. (88-92)

2013 Volnay   vieilles vignes
The vineyard here is at the foot of the slope. The soils are red, but very shallow, and one reaches the rock beneath very quickly. The wine shows more intensity than the Clos de la Cave, but it remains very fine, nonetheless. The fruit is dark and very expressive. This is above village class. (90-93)

2013 Pommard
The Pommard is primarily from the Vaumuriens vineyard, above Rugiens. It shows dark fruit and structure, with not of the voluptuousness of the previous wines. There is good energy here and structure too, but also finesse in the context of Pommard. This wine, too, is above its class. (89-93)

2013 Beaune 1er Cru – Les Renversées
This wine comes from the foot of the slope in southern Beaune, right by the road that goes up to Bouze-les-Beaune. 40% whole clusters in this wine. The wine has dark fruit and structure, although it is fleshier than the Pommard. (88-92)

2013 Volnay 1er Cru – Les Carelles
This wine is from 16 year-old vines located just below the chapel in Volnay. It is pure, round, and elegant with some fleshiness, and structure that kicks in at the end from the chalk soils. The wine resembles a Volnay-Champans until the chalky finish kicks in. (90-93)

2013 Volnay 1er Cru – Clos des Chênes
Bouley owns two parcels here, both on the Monthélie side of the vineyard.  The vines are old. 40% whole cluster fruit in this wine. The wine is dark, stony, lean, and tightly-wound – very much Clos des Chênes in its profile. The fruit is dark with lots of minerality. This is outstanding wine. (92-95)

2013 Pommard 1er Cru – Les Fremiers
This wine is from 40 year-old vines located next to the Pommard-Croix Noires vineyard. Here, too, 40% whole cluster fruit. The wine shows finesse for Pommard with some spice to its dark fruit. There is lightness to the mouth and fine tannins for Pommard. (89-93)

2013 Pommard 1er Cru – Les Rugiens
The vines here are located in an old quarry in the upper part of the vineyard on white soils. The grapes were entirely destemmed in 2013. The nose has typical Rugiens smokiness. The mouth is fine for Rugiens but with depth and power lurking behind. It is quite individual for Rugiens because of the exposure directly to the rock from the quarry. The wine is long, dark, and pure with a bit of violet showing through. (91-95)