Thursday, December 11, 2014

Domaine TRAPET Père et Fils -- 2013s from cask and one from bottle

Domaine Jean et Jean-Louis TRAPET (Gevrey-Chambertin)

2013s from Cask and Bottle

This estate is still not known well enough in proportion to its current reputation, but the wines here have been outstanding at least since the estate went biodynamic in 1997, reprising the older reputation after a period of less exciting wines. In short, it is one of the estates that I would put on my personal short list.

Jean-Louis Trapet said that his overall production was down 35% in 2013 – mostly due to millerandage (irregular fruit set) and some rot. Harvesting began about October 1. Where the stems were ripest, they were used for the wines, but overall the percentage used (20-25% to 50-60%) was less than normal.

2013 Bourgogne blanc
This wine was already in bottle when I visited. Because the amount of white Marsannay was so small, that wine is included in this one in 2013. The nose is crisp and stony. In the mouth the wine shows some oiliness but also crisp apple fruit with good complexity, nice integration of acidity, a smooth texture, and medium weight. 88/A

Switching to the reds:

2013 Bourgogne-Passetoutgrains   A Minima
This is a Passetoutgrains made with sulfur added only at bottling. Along with Lafarge, this is the top in my experience for Passetoutgrains. The nose has typical cassis fruit. The mouth has pure cassis with a touch of spice, medium-weight, and nervosity. (86-89)

2013 Marsannay
This wine is dense and sensual with spicy dark and red fruits. It will be attractive for young drinking. (88-91)

2013 Gevrey-Chambertin
This wine shows more structure and depth than the Marsanny and has wild dark fruits. It is medium-weight with some acidity showing. An impressive effort. (89-93)

2013 Gevrey-Chambertin  Ostrea
The Gevrey “Ostrea” includes estate vines planted in 1913. The nose is stony and the wine shows greater density, structure, and tannin to go with its dark fruit. It is a wine to hold longer than the regular Gevrey. (89-93)

2013 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru
Although this wine is very reduced, it is clear that there is good material here underneath – precision and clear red fruit come through and this wine is medium-weight with perhaps more finesse than I find in most Gevreys. (90-94)

2013 Chapelle-Chambertin
In my Burgundy learning curve, it took me a long time to understand that Chapelle-Chambertin (speaking in general, and not of Trapet’s in particular) is not just a marginal grand cru, but one that can be quite splendid in its own right. Well, here’s a splendid one for you. Both nose and mouth are very complex with a smooth texture and pure dark fruit. The balance is perfect and the wine is medium-light. (94-97)

2013 Latricières-Chambertin
This wine is energetic and medium-weight with dark cherry fruit. It is perhaps a bit rounder than I think of for Latricières – the effect of the vintage – but still excellent. (92-95)

2013 Chambertin
Here, the use of whole clusters reached 60-70%. The wine is mineral in the nose. The mouth is dense, pure, succulent, and pure in its red fruit. The wine also shows finesse, depth, and power. It is Chambertin most worthy of the reputation. (94-97)