Domaine Paul et Marie JACQUESON -- 2013s from Bottle and a 2012 from Bottle

Domaine Paul et Marie JACQUESON (Rully)

This estate was created in 1966 by Paul Jacqueson’s grandfather, and over the years it has rightly built a reputation as one of the best sources on the Côte Chalonnaise, both for red and white wines. I am always happy to find the wines on a restaurant list or in a store, as I know I will find stylish quality at a most attractive price.

In the vineyards, the estate practices lutte raisonnée (use of non-organic treatments only as a last resort) with no herbicides at all. The fields are worked by hand and by machine

2013s from Bottle

Vintage conditions on the Côte Chalonnaise were essentially the same as in the Côte d’Or. Happily, hail was not a factor in 2013. Harvesting began on September 29 and finished on October 12. There was triage for the reds and even more so for the whites. All grapes are destemmed here. Chaptalization was on the order of 1º in 2013 (there was none in either 2012 or 2014). The reds are all bottled without filtration.

We start with the white wines:

2013 Bouzeron  Les Cordères

Bouzeron, of course, is entirely from Aligoté. The vines were planted in 1937. The wine raised in wooden barrels. It is fresh, light, and mineral. 87/B+

2013 Rully 1er Cru – Margotés

The Margotés is from vines planted in 1999. It is raised 20% in new oak. The wine is light, smooth, mineral, and pure. 89/A-

2013 Rully 1er Cru – La Pucelle

The Pucelle is the white that I most frequently find in restaurants and shops. It comes from vines planted in 1992. The soils are mostly limestone, but there is some clay. The nose has pure lime blossom aromas. The mouth is pure, light, and focused with lime and mineral flavors. 91/A

2013 Rully 1er Cru – Grésigny

The Grésigny is from vines planted in 1950 on rocky limestone soils. It, too, is raised 20% in new oak. The wine is denser than the foregoing with purity and clarity. 90+/A

2013 Rully 1er Cru – Raclot

The Raclot is from vines planted in 1991 in a vineyard next to Les Clous. There are but 22 ares planted, so it is a rarity. The wine is dense, pure, light, fresh, and mineral. 90/A

Next we turn to the reds:

2013 Rully 1er Cru – Les Chaponnières

This wine is from vines planted in 1987 on clay soils. It is fresh and pure with crunchy dark fruits. 90/A

2013 Rully 1er Cru – Les Clous

This wine comes from vines planted in 1967 on limestone-clay soils. It is fresh and crunchy with dark fruit and finesse. It is an outstanding wine. 92/A

2013 Mercurey 1er Cru – Les Naugues

The Naugues is from vines planted in 1962. 25% new oak on this wine. The nose is quite mineral and pure. The mouth shows dark fruit and more body and power than the Clous, but still with finesse and freshness. 91/A

A 2012 from Bottle

2012 Rully 1er Cru – Les Clous

This is denser than the 2013 version with depth and dark fruits, especially blueberries. Like the 2013, it is a lovely wine. 92/A