Thursday, January 1, 2015

Domaine Oliver JOUAN -- 2013s from Cask

Domaine Olivier JOUAN (Arcenant)

Although holdings here are centered around Morey-Saint-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin, Jouan’s cellar is located above Nuits-Saint-Georges in the Hautes-Côtes de Nuits. I’ve liked the wines in the past, but this was the first time I visited the cellar.

Jouan began making wine in 1999. He is the first member of his family to make wine commercially, even though five generations preceded him in growing grapes. He exploits a little over 7.5 ha of vines, 5.5 of which are in the Hauts-Côtes-de-Nuits. Work in the vineyard is done organically, although the estate is not certified as organic. Jouan is still not well-known, so this is a good source of quality wines at prices that usually are below those of other, more famous producers.

2013s  from Cask
 Harvesting here finished on October 15. Yields are on the order of 15-20 hl/ha. All grapes are destemmed. Chaptalization was about 1.5º.

2013 Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits
The wine shows fresh red fruit, and it is broad with nice tension. (85-88)

2013 Morey-Saint-Denis   Clos Solon
This wine has attractive, fresh, slightly spiced dark fruit aromas. The mouth is medium-weight and there is good density to the dark fruit. (86-90)

2013 Gevrey-Chambertin
The Gevrey is from vines that are about fifty years old in the Les Seuvrées lieu-dit, east of the route nationale and just north of the Morey border. The nose and mouth both show dark cherry fruit and the wine has some breadth and density. (87-91)

2013 Chambolle-Musigny   Les Bussières
This wine is broad, dark, and spicy. The lieu-dit is on the border between Chambolle and Morey, abutting Roumier’s premier cru Morey-Clos de la Bussière. (87-91)

2013 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru – Les Ruchots
The malolactic fermentation had not yet finished when I sampled the Ruchots. It is dark and seems to have more acidity and grip than the preceding wines, although that is not easy to tell because of the ongoing fermentation. (89-92)

2013 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru – La Riotte
The malolactic fermentation had not finished for the Riotte, either. The vines here are 74 years old. The wine shows dark fruit with some red currants, medium-weight, and good depth. (90-93)

2013 Charmes-Chambertin

The Charmes-Chambertin shows red currants, strawberries, and iron in the nose. The mouth is nervy with red fruit and good body, but the wine is a bit rustic, showing its origin of 80% in the Mazoyères section of Charmes-Chambertin. 40% new oak on this wine. (90-94)