Domaine Oliver JOUAN -- 2013s from Cask
Domaine Olivier JOUAN (Arcenant)
Although
holdings here are centered around Morey-Saint-Denis and Gevrey-Chambertin,
Jouan’s cellar is located above Nuits-Saint-Georges in the Hautes-Côtes de
Nuits. I’ve liked the wines in the past, but this was the first time I visited
the cellar.
Jouan
began making wine in 1999. He is the first member of his family to make wine
commercially, even though five generations preceded him in growing grapes. He
exploits a little over 7.5 ha of vines, 5.5 of which are in the
Hauts-Côtes-de-Nuits. Work in the vineyard is done organically, although the
estate is not certified as organic. Jouan is still not well-known, so this is a
good source of quality wines at prices that usually are below those of other,
more famous producers.
2013s
from Cask
Harvesting here finished on October 15. Yields
are on the order of 15-20 hl/ha. All grapes are destemmed. Chaptalization was
about 1.5º.
2013 Bourgogne-Hautes-Côtes-de-Nuits
The
wine shows fresh red fruit, and it is broad with nice tension. (85-88)
2013 Morey-Saint-Denis Clos Solon
This
wine has attractive, fresh, slightly spiced dark fruit aromas. The mouth is medium-weight
and there is good density to the dark fruit. (86-90)
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin
The
Gevrey is from vines that are about fifty years old in the Les Seuvrées lieu-dit, east of the route nationale and just north of the
Morey border. The nose and mouth both show dark cherry fruit and the wine has
some breadth and density. (87-91)
2013 Chambolle-Musigny Les Bussières
This
wine is broad, dark, and spicy. The lieu-dit
is on the border between Chambolle and Morey, abutting Roumier’s premier cru Morey-Clos de la Bussière.
(87-91)
2013 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru – Les Ruchots
The
malolactic fermentation had not yet finished when I sampled the Ruchots. It is
dark and seems to have more acidity and grip than the preceding wines, although
that is not easy to tell because of the ongoing fermentation. (89-92)
2013 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru – La Riotte
The
malolactic fermentation had not finished for the Riotte, either. The vines here
are 74 years old. The wine shows dark fruit with some red currants,
medium-weight, and good depth. (90-93)
2013 Charmes-Chambertin
The
Charmes-Chambertin shows red currants, strawberries, and iron in the nose. The
mouth is nervy with red fruit and good body, but the wine is a bit rustic,
showing its origin of 80% in the Mazoyères section of Charmes-Chambertin. 40%
new oak on this wine. (90-94)
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