Saturday, January 3, 2015

Domaine BONNEAU-DU-MARTRAY -- 2013s from Cask

Domaine BONNEAU-DU-MARTRAY (Pernand-Vergelesses)

2013s Tasted from Cask

Like so many estates on the Côte de Beaune, this estate has been hit hard by the hails of 2012-2013-2014. With yields of 13.64 hl/ha for the Corton-Charlemagne and 10.83 hl/ha for the Corton, there is only 30% of a normal crop in 2013 and with the small crop in 2012, no more left to sell (or for me to taste).

Both wines are highly successful:

2013 Corton-Charlemagne
The nose here is most pure. The body is medium-full with classic, complex hazelnut flavors. The wine is long and intense with a seamless combination of finesse and power. This is one of the most impressive Corton-Charlemagnes in my long history of visits to this estate.

The grapes were harvested from late morning October 7 until October 11. The skies were gray, but only on October 10 was there rain, and that was followed by wind that quickly dried the grapes. Here, too, the grapes that survived the hail were in healthy condition. The malolactic fermentations began in December 2013 and were finished by late March 2014. (94-98)

2013 Corton
The red Corton is pure, intense, concentrated, and balanced with a steely texture and minerality. Coming from white grape, it of course is different from the Cortons such as Bressandes, Clos-du-Roy, and Renardes of the east-facing slope, but just as compelling, nevertheless.

The red Corton is from grapes harvested the afternoon of October 6 and the morning of October 7. With the dried, hail-affected grapes eliminated, there was need to take out only 6% of what was left on the table de trie. As always since 1995, the grapes are completely destemmed. Malolactic fermentations were late, beginning in May 2014 and finished in mid-August. (93-96)