Domaine Marc ROY -- 2013s from Bottle
Domaine Marc ROY (Gevrey-Chambertin)
2013s from Bottle
Label
snobs can skip this review, as it only contains wines from village vineyards,
which they would not deign to drink. For the rest of us, these are exciting
wines, showing that old vines and effort in the vineyard and cellar can pay off
and deliver wines of premier cru quality.
Alexandrine Roy, who also makes the wine (not just consults) at Phelps Creek in
Oregon, is justly proud of what she accomplishes here. The style is one of
purity, precision, and freshness and the wines can drink very well young.
Because
of the long (three week) flowering period, there were grapes of different
generations on the vines, here as everywhere. Alexandrine worked over the
summer to take off the grapes from the later-flowering, and so when she
harvested, she just took in the grapes from the early flowering and had uniform
quality. Additionally, she took off some leaves to help promote the quality and
ripening. As a result of her work, she was able to harvest from September 27 to
October 2, earlier than many and before the rains that started a few days later.
There was a price for the selection she did in the vineyards, though, and she
is down 30% from a normal crop. All grapes were destemmed.
These
wines were bottled at the end of August 2014.
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin vieilles vignes
The
grapes here all come from vines that average 70+ years of age. The wine is pure and
precise with red currant and strawberry fruit and outstanding freshness. 90/A
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin La Justice
Alexandrine
purchased some vines in the La Justice climat
(below the route nationale just
as one leaves Gevrey-Chambertin heading north) in 2010; 2011 was the first
vintage that this wine was made. (The estate already owned some vines in La
Justice that is blended into the regular Gevrey-Chambertin.) The vines are
about 40 years old, from the Pinot fin
and yields very small berries. The nose shows spicy, mineral strawberry aromas
and flavors. The mouth is chewy with good density, freshness, and length. 92/A
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin Clos Prieur
The
Clos Prieur vineyard is just below Mazis-Chambertin. The upper part is
classified premier cru, and the
bottom part, from which this wine comes, is village. But Alexandrine notes that
the vines here are from the top part of the village Clos Prieur (that is, close
to the premier cru portion). The
vines here are about 50 years old. The nose here is darker and there are some
smoke elements. The dark fruit continues in the mouth with some wildness – the
proximity of Mazis-Chambertin is evident. The wine is smooth, flowing, and pure
– a delight already. 92/A
2013 Gevrey-Chambertin cuvée Alexandrine
This
wine is the estate’s top cuvée,
created with the 2005 vintage, two years after Alexandrine took over the
estate. It is only from very small grapes in Alexandrine’s six favorite
parcels. The nose is floral, and that continues in the mouth where there are
also very pure red fruits. The wine is precise, smooth, elegant, long, and
nervy with a lovely, smooth texture. Like the others, this wine is delicious
already to drink, and it should be able to take some aging 92+/A
2013 Marsannay blanc
This
wine has a stony, mineral nose. The mouth is round, deep, and medium-full but
fresh and steely. Good length here. I get a vision of the grapes in the wine
when I taste it. This wine is 100% Chardonnay on very gravelly soil. The vines
are about 35 years old. The wine is fermented in stainless steel. 88/B+
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