Monday, December 1, 2014

Domaine G. ROUMIER/Christophe ROUMIER -- 2013s and some 2012s

Domaine G. ROUMIER/Christophe ROUMIER* (Chambolle-Musigny)
2013s from Barrel, Some 2012s from Bottle

This is another of the iconic domaines of Chambolle-Musigny, next door to Jacques-Frédéric Mugnier whose wines I reviewed yesterday. When young, these wines seem more powerful and tightly-wound than those of Mugnier. Nevertheless, they can age into wines of surprising finesse and elegance, as those with the privilege of having had a Roumier Bonnes-Mares at fifteen or twenty years of age can attest. The wines often do go through a rather substantial dumb period before they reach their full maturity. Unfortunately, as with Mugnier’s wines, demand has skyrocketed, and one is likely to find the wines only at speculative prices.

Christophe Roumier said that he began harvesting on 5 October and finished by the 11th. He said that pickers removed the unripe fruit so that although he had a table de trie at the reception, there was almost nothing to do there. The overall crop for the domaine was about 22 hl/ha, the same as in 2012 (in 2014 the size is up substantially to 37 hl/ha). Malolactic fermentations finished for the most part over the summer. Whole clusters were used for some wines, as indicated below.

Christophe said that he though his 2013s were perhaps like his 1995s (no small praise), but not exactly. He also noted that the wines have the depth and intensity of the 2010s and 2012s but not the elegance.

Below are notes on the wines in the order presented at the estate this past October 27:

2013 Chambolle-Musigny
This is the assembled cuvée from five separate lots. About 15% whole clusters were used here. The wine is pure, smooth, and crystalline with dark fruits. (89-93)

2013 Morey-Saint-Denis 1er Cru – Clos de la Bussière
This is a monopole vineyard. For a long time, it gave a wine that was quite rustic in its youth and took a long time to come around. Beginning in 2002, due to changes that Christophe made in the vineyard and the cellar, the wine has become rounder, less tannic and, and overall more civilized than it previously had been. About 25% whole cluster fruit here. The wine is round with red fruits and it is more edgy than the village Chambolle. (89-93)

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – Les Combottes
This wine is more concentrated than usual. It shows dark fruit with a hint of minerality, and it has good freshness and finesse – an excellent output (90-94)

Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – Les Cras
Overall, about 40% whole cluster fruit in this wine, although some parts of the vineyard gave very little whole clusters to the final wine. The wine is stony, structured, crystalline, and pure – an outstanding Cras. (92-96)

Charmes-Chambertin  “Mazoyères”*
As the quotation marks indicate, this is a Charmes-Chambertin, but sublabelled “Mazoyères” so that consumers know which of the two climates this wine came from. The askterisk (*) indicates that this wine is bottled under the Christophe Roumier label, not G. Roumier. About 35% whole clusters in this wine. The nose and mouth show Mazoyères gaminess to go with the dark fruit. The wine also shows some spiciness. It is a good representation of the Mazoyères terroir. (90-94)

The wine has some richness to go with nervosity, energy, and depth. In short, a good, typical Ruchottes-Chambertin. (93-96)

2013 Bonnes-Mares
The Bonnes-Mares is about 35% whole cluster fruit. The wine is dark, powerful, deep, nervy, and shows excellent acidity. As usual, expect that it will take 15-20 years to show its full potential, but patience will be amply rewarded. (94-98)

2013 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – Les Amoureuses
The Amoureuses, too, is about 35% whole cluster fruit. The wine is nervy, pure, and deep with dark and some red fruits, roses, spice, and excellent length. In short, an outstanding Amourueses. (94-97)

2013 Musigny
One-and-a-quarter barrels (375 bottles) of this wine produced in 2013. The full barrel was new, but when the wine from it was racked, it was transferred to an older barrel. About half whole cluster fruit in this wine. It is smooth, sensual, long, and intense with black fruit, some crystallinity, and great depth and length. Those lucky enough to obtain a bottle should expect to hold it at least twenty years to full maturity, as is the case with all proper Musigny. (95-99)

2013 Corton-Charlemagne*
Roumier’s parcel of Corton-Charlemagne is on the west- (Pernand-) facing side of the Corton hill and was very severely hit by hail in 2013. Total production is only 150 liters, so the wine will not be commercially released, just given to family members. That said, the wine has turned out to be quite good with intense lemon-lime aromas and flavors and great concentration (Christophe said that there was almost no juice in the fruit that remained after the hail). (91-94)

2012 Chambolle-Musigny
The 2012 Chambolle is light, floating above the tongue, pure, dark, and long – a wonderful example of Chambolle-Musigny. 92+/A

2012 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – Les Cras
The Cras displays finesse, purity, complexity, and length, as well as more structure than the village Chambolle. I’d expect to give this wine at least 12-15 years in the cellar. 94/A

2012 Bonnes-Mares

Roumier’s magnificent Bonnes-Mares has typical Bonnes-Mares earthiness in the nose. The mouth is dark, sappy, deep, and intense, but with tannins that command patience in the cellar. 98/A+