Thursday, May 7, 2015

MEO-CAMUZET -- 2012s tasted from cask in autumn 2013 (Vosne-Romanée)

Below is my article on 2012s at Méo-Camuzet tasted from cask in autumn 2013 and originally published in Issue 141 of The Fine Wine Review. Wines marked by an asterisk (*) are Méo-Camuzet Frère et Soeurs, a négociant operation; the rest are Domaine wines. Some of the 2012s were subsequently tasted from bottle and are reviewed here.

Jean-Nicolas Méo said that production was a little less than in 2011. He began the harvest on 19 September with the Corton-Clos Rognet. He said that some triage was necessary, but less than, for example, in 2005(!); generally, the grapes were very healthy. In a major break with the past, he has begun using whole clusters – about 15% -- in certain wines: Nuits-Boudots, Echézeaux, Clos-de-Vougeot, and Vosne-Cros Parantoux. “Henri [Jayer] is turning over in his grave,” said Jean-Nicolas, a reference to Jayer’s implacable opposition to use of stems and to his role as Jean-Nicolas’s mentor. Jean-Nicolas characterized malolactic fermentations as “heterogeneous”: some finished as early as November 2012, some in the following months, and some as late as August 2013. Similarly, pH ranges were very diverse, ranging from 3.28 to 3.70. (Continue reading here.)