Friday, May 12, 2017

Domaine GENOT-BOULANGER (Meursault) -- 2015 Part I: Reds Tasted from Tank and Barrel Samples

This estate was created in the 1970s by a Parisian pharmacist, first in Mercurey, then it moved to Beaune. It is now in Meursault.

Over the years, the domaine expanded greatly (the first purchase of Côte d’Or property was only in 1995), but much of the production was sold to négociants. Today, the estate comprises 22 ha and 30 appellations, fifteen in each color, and with the emphasis on estate bottling. The Côte Chalonnaise holdings, which at one time had been as high as 13 ha, are now 4 ha, with the remainder being in the Côte d’Or.

Aude and Guillaume Lavollée became the third generation to run the estate, beginning in 2008. The immediately began changes in the vineyards, converting the estate to organic viticulture. Beginning with the 2011 vintage, the estate was entirely organic and certification was achieved in 2015. 

There is excellent quality here. Especially for those who are frustrated because the allocations of so many estates of long recognition are full, this is a property to look for.

Harvesting in 2015 began on 2 September with the whites. For the reds, the premiers crus and grands crus from the Côte de Nuits have 20-40% whole cluster, except for the Clos-Vougeot, which has 80% whole clusters. For the reds, malolactic fermentations finished rather early.

The grapes were not cooled in 2015 and remontage (pumping over) was used rather than the more extractive punching down, because the terroirs here naturally give structure, said Guillaume Lavollée. Usually, fermentation goes for 2-3 weeks; in 2015, it was 17-18 days. After that, the wines spend 10-12 months in barrel, then six months in cask. For the reds, 20% new oak except for the Bougogne. (Continue reading here.)