Monday, January 2, 2017

Domaine Chantal RÉMY/Héritiers Louis RÉMY (Morey-Saint-Denis): 2015s Tasted from Cask and a 2014 from Bottle

Chantal Rémy, who began making the wines here in 1988, has handed to reins off to her son Florian (who has been working with her the last several years). With that go some changes. First, harvesting, which under Chantal used to be, along with Ponsot and Confuron-Cotétidot, among the very latest on the Côte de Nuits, is now somewhat earlier; in 2015, it began on 10 September, just after the rains.  And contrary to prior years, there were some stems used (10% for estate wines) in 2015. I am in some sense neutral about use of stems, greatly enjoying wines from producers who systematically use all the stems and also greatly enjoying wines from producers who systematically never use them, as well as producers in between. But their use does alter the style.

The négociant wines (purchased grapes) are marked by an asterisk (*) below and sold under Héritiers Louis Rémy label.  Yields for them were about 40 hl/ha, but for the estate wines, yields were considerably lower. Malolactic fermentations were late for some wines, but others finished in July.

These are good wines, but in a different style from that of the wines in the past. In place of the crisp, energetic wines of before, these are more relaxed, perhaps even a bit too relaxed for my preference (or do I just need to adjust to the new style? We’ll have to see as the years go along). (Continue reading here.)