Recently Sampled Beaujolais from 2014 and 2015 Part II: Lardy, Lapierre, Robert-Denogent, Antoine Sunier

The first part of this current review of Beaujolais is here. 




Yohan LARDY

2015 Moulin-à-Vent   Les Michelons
Lardy only began his estate in 2012, but he is lucky enough to have these vines in the Les Michelons lieu-dit that date from 1911 and 1950. The wine shows good freshness to intense dark cherry fruit and has a wonderful silky texture to its medium-weight body. There is good acidity here and no excess alcohol. Lot L0116. 13% stated alcohol. 90/A-



M. & C. LAPIERRE

2015 Morgon   Cuvée MMXV
 From 100 year-old vines, this wine is an extraordinary success. The aromas and flavors are ripe, but not overripe, red cherries with depth, concentration, and definition, as well as good freshness and acidity. Drink now, or if you have a cold cellar, keep for 20-30 years. Lot 07/01/17. This wine has an “S”, indicating some sulfur was added at bottling. 14% stated alcohol. 94/A+

2016 Vin de France     Raisins Gaulois
Mostly from from the Morgon appellation with some Beaujolais added, this wine is crisp and pure with spiced blueberries in a medium/medium-light body of good clarity. No real complexity here, just lots of enjoyment. 12.5% stated alcohol. SRGF 18/01/17.  87/A

2016 Juliénas
This is classic Juliénas with floral red cherry fruit and firmness of texture. The balance here is outstanding. I’d drink this wine over the next 5-7 years, but it may well age significantly longer. Lot J16 VVS 10/03/17. There is an “S" on the back label, indicating some sulfur was added at bottling. 13.5% stated alcohol.  91/A



Domaine ROBERT-DENOGENT

2014 Beaujolais-Villages   cuvée Jules Chauvet
Although largely unknown today to the all-natural somms in Paris, New York, and San Francisco, Jules Chauvet was the founder of the natural wine movement (the natural wine producers, for the most part, do seem to know about Chauvet). Google the name to find out more about him. Chauvet died in 1989. This wine is from one of his vineyards that passed to a niece who has rented it to Robert-Denogent. It’s been more than twenty years since I’ve had one of Chauvet's wines, so I can’t give a direct comparison, but as best memory serves me, this wine is a reasonable facsimile of the wines Chauvet made. Which is to say, it is made from vines organically cultivated and no SO2 is used (except possibly a minimal amount at bottling). The wine needs a decant, but then is light and incisive with bright red cherry fruit in a medium-weight body with some density to the texture. Lot LJC. 12% stated alcohol.  87/A-



Antoine SUNIER

2015 Regnié
This wine is medium-weight with spicy dark berry fruit and good firmness and depth. Good freshness. 13.5% stated alcohol.  Lot L15-2.  90/A-