Recently Sampled Northern Rhônes Part XI: Faury, Gallety, Jamet, Jasmin, Paris, Perret, Robin

All wines are red except as otherwise indicated.

Lionel FAURY

2015 Collines Rhodaniennes    L’Art Zélé    Syrah
This is a different wine from the 2015 Collines Rhdaniennes from Faury that I previously have reviewed. At the moment, this wine is a total fruit bomb, so much so that I don’t find it pleasant to drink on the first day open, and even on the second, although it has begun to come together, it still is full of raspberry and blackberry jam. But I suspect that given another year or two in bottle, it may pull together and show well. 12.5% stated alcohol. 87?/A

2015 Saint-Joseph
This is simply gorgeous Saint-Joseph of the northern region type. It is medium-weight with a smooth, sensual texture — a Rhône counterpart to Vosne-Romanée, if you will. The nose and mouth feature blackberry and other dark and red berries along with hints of hot stones, spices, violets, and dark chocolate.  All that indicates this wine is from very close to the Côte-Rôtie appellation. 13% stated alcohol. 91/A

2015 Saint-Joseph    vieilles vignes
The vieilles vignes (old vines) in question here were those of Joseph Panel/Domaine des Cheffieux, a little-known estate that 25-30 years ago was making some of the most remarkable wines in the Northern Rhône. Faury continues to make remarkable wines from those vines. This wine is tannic and closed, and in that sense resembles the L’Art Zélé above. But there is so much more precision and complexity here with smoky, dark fruit, spicy aromas and flavors. Unlike the regular St-Jo above, this is a wine that requires cellaring for 5-10 years or longer, but the potential is enormous. 13% stated alcohol.  93/A

2015 Côte-Rôtie
This wine comes from vines planted between 1993 and 2008 on the Côte Brune (Fourvier and Le Plomb). Fourvier is on the slopes, Le Plomb on the (less good) plateau above the slopes. Traditionally, Viognier has been little planted on the Côte Brune, but here it makes up 10% of Faury’s vines. The wine is open, delicious, and balanced with spicy dark and red berry fruit in a medium-weight body. There is good acidic support. I’d drink this wine over the next 5-10 years, although it may well last longer. 13% stated alcohol. 92/A



Domaine GALLETY

2014 Côtes du Vivarais    Cuvée Spéciale
This mixture of Syrah and Grenache is from an area traditionally considered between the Northern and Southern Rhône regions. It features dark fruits with hints of spiciness in a medium-full body. Lovers of full-throttle Southern Rhônes may be even more enthusiastic than I. 14% stated alcohol.  88/A-



Domaine JAMET/Corine, Jean-Paul & Loïc JAMET

2015 Côtes du Rhône
As in 2013 (but not 2014), Jamet has made a Côtes du Rhône that is probably better than most of the Côtes-Rôties of his fellow producers. The wine is quite concentrated, but elegant and balanced with violets and spicy red and dark fruit and a silky texture. You can drink it now for its fruit, but there’s still a very positive evolution ahead for this wine. 13% stated alcohol. Lot LR15. 91(+)/A



Patrick JASMIN

2015 Vin des Collines Rhodaniennes   La Chevalière
 Time may yet tame this wine into something more interesting, but for now, it’s a simple, rustic, yet enjoyable Syrah: full-bodied and with one-dimensional violet-tinged fruit and some tannins showing. 13% stated alcohol. Lot L15. 86(+?)/B



Vincent PARIS

2015 Saint-Joseph    Les Côtes
This wine is dark, dense, and concentrated with no shortage of primary dark fruits and tannin. It’s a wine to cellar for 5-8 years, at least. Lot L 1. 13.5% stated alcohol. 88(+)/B

2015 Cornas    Le Geynale
This is the cuvée from vines on steep slopes from which Vincent Paris’s uncle Robert Michel had previously made his top wine. It is dense, tannic, and extracted (perhaps too tannic and extracted?) with very forward, primary dark fruits. It is somewhat of a gamble and in any case is going to require substantial aging (8-10+ years) until it comes around. Lot L01. 14% stated alcohol.   91(?)/A-



André PERRET

2015 Saint-Joseph (white)
There may be a few white Saint-Joseph producers who can match Perret (e.g., Gonon, Gripa, maybe Faury), but there are none that I know of who can top him. The wine is about a 50/50 blend between Marsanne and Roussanne, part fermented in stainless steel, part in wood (with about 1/5 new). Apricots and honey dominate the nose and flavor and there is richness of texture plus a good acidic bite for a wine that is normally low in acidity and indeed has a voluptuous texture. Lot LSJB15. 13.5% stated alcohol.   92/A

2015 Saint-Joseph (red)
This wine shows the richness, breadth, and moderate acidity of the 2015 vintage in the Northern Rhône to go with violets and dark fruits. Interestingly, the floral aspects of Saint-Joseph in this northern portion of the appellation are suppressed, possibly because of the ripeness of the vintage. Lot L SJR15. 14% stated alcohol.  92/A



Gilles ROBIN

2016 Crozes-Hermitage    cuvée Papillon
This wine is Robin’s early-drinking cuvée and it is a bargain, should you come across it. Violets and black fruit in the nose are followed by an ample body with good balance and enlivening acidity plus depth to the blackberry fruits and violets. All that separates this wine from a still better one is the lack of complexity (which is common in Crozes). 13% stated alcohol.  89/A