Miscellaneous Loire Reds Recently Tasted: Château de Brézé/Lambert, Janvier, Lemasson/Vins Contés, Sebile, Carroi Bon Air, Morantin

Some good wines here at prices that don't challenge the pocket book.



Château de BRÉZÉ/ Domaine Arnaud LAMBERT

2015 Saumur   Clos Mazurique
Not an expensive wine, this wine does not pretend to be anything more than it is: an enjoyable, if simple, expression of Cabernet Franc with dark plum fruits and a silky texture in a medium-weight body. 13.00% (sic) stated alcohol. 87/B



Pascal JANVIER

2016 Coteaux du Loir    Cuvée du Rosier
This is a good wine, but a little atypical for Pineau d’Aunis. The typical white pepper and chalkiness are here, but this wine also has more cranberry and black currant fruit than usual. It is an elegant wine and light in weight, and I’d incline for drinking it over the next 3-5 years, slightly chilled. Lot L 14. 12% stated alcohol. 87/B



O. LEMASSON/Les VINS CONTÉS

(2016) Vin de France   Poivre et Sel 16
Olivier Lemasson is a former sommelier who became fascinated with natural wines and set up his own négociant operation, buying only from growers who were certified as organic or followed organic practices. Harvesting is done by hand. In the case of this wine, no sulfites were added. The wine is primarily from old-vine Pineau d’Aunis with some Gamay from younger, but mature, vines. The ripeness of the vintage somewhat reduces the white pepper aspect of the Pineau d’Aunis and renders the wine smooth and with less grip and perhaps less depth than usual, but one finds plenty of charming strawberry fruit with a little cassis underneath. Lot L Poi16. 11% stated alcohol. 87/A



Luc SEBILLE/Domaine CARROI BON AIR

2014 Vin de France   Cabernet Franc    Les Débonnaires
I gather that in past vintages, this wine has borne the appellation Chinon; I’m unclear whether it is now labelled vin de France because the appellation was denied or because it now includes grapes from outside the appellation. Either way, it is an organic, "natural" wine with no sulfites added. Lots of blackberry fruit here in the nose and mouth, and also some spiciness in this medium-weight wine. I’d drink it in the next 1-2 years. 12.7% stated alcohol. Lot L14.  87/A



Noëlla MORANTIN

2015 Vin de France   Gamay   Mon Cher
Morantin is an organic producer (although there is no certification on the label), and apparently added little or no sulfur to this wine (and I imagine, to her wines in general). There are dark berry fruits here with roundness in a medium-weight body. It should be good drinking for at least the next two years. 12% stated alcohol. LOT L05/15. 86/B+