Red Jura Wines Recently Tasted: Champ Divin/Closset, Dorbon, Pélican/d'Angerville, Ronces/Mazier, Tournelle/Clairet

Even less well-known than the whites from the region, the reds nevertheless can prove equally rewarding. 




CHAMP DIVIN/Fabrice et Valérie CLOSSET

Certified organic and biodynamic. 

2015 Côtes du Jura   Pinot Noir
This Pinot Noir has pleasing red cherry and raspberry fruit in a medium-weight body with good supporting acidity and tannin. There also are some oak-like tastes here. What the wine does not have at this point is any depth or complexity — will that develop? 13% stated alcohol. Lot LP1150416. 87(+?)/B




Joseph DORBON

In conversion to organic production.

2014 Arbois     Ploussard    Vieilles Vignes
Ploussard (an alternative spelling of Poulsard) is not necessarily an easy grape to like. The wines can be unfocused, and indeed, at first this one seems to fall in that class. But with sufficient time, this wine shows lovely rose petal aromas and intense red currant and strawberry flavors with mouth-watering acidic support in a light body. Serve this wine chilled with cheeses, sausages, poultry, and charcuterie. 12% stated alcohol. Lot 12.  89/A




Domaine du PÉLICAN/Marquis d’ANGERVILLE

Like the home domaine in Volnay, the wines here are produced organically and biodynamically (not shown on the label).

2015 Arbois       Trois Cépages        Pinot Noir   Trousseau   Poulsard
With all the finesse and detail that one finds in the Volnays from the Marquis d’Angerville, this wine combines the three principal red grapes of the Jura region in a manner that allows the personality of each to come through. The wine has some spice to red fruit, lightness on the palate, smoothness, and excellent definition. In the world of Jura wines, this one is perhaps stylized for its sophistication, but certainly worthy of the utmost attention and respect, even if I wouldn’t want all producers to adopt this style. 12.5% stated alcohol. 91/A




Domaine des RONCES/Michel et Kevin MAZIER

Certified organic. 

2015 Côtes du Jura    Trousseau
This wine is medium-light in weight and has simple spiced red fruits with good acidity. It’s fine for drinking with charcuterie, cheese, games, etc., but a little boring on its own. 12% stated alcohol. Lot L 15/01. 86/B-




Domaine de la TOURNELLE/Evelyne et Pascal CLAIRET

Certified organic. 

2015 Arbois   Trousseau des Corvées
This wine needs a bit of decanting, but then it settles down to show attractive raspberry fruit in a medium-light body. Nothing complex or profound, but still enjoyable. Lot L Tr 0916. 13% stated alcohol. 87/B