Jura White Wines Recently Sampled: Champ Divin/Closset, Ganevat, Marnes Blanches/Fromont, Pélican/d'Angerville

Although one might have to hunt to find the wines, and there is some disparity in quality, at their best, Jura whites are some of the most interesting wines, across a variety of styles, available in the market today. 

CHAMP DIVIN/Fabrice et Valérie CLOSSET

2014 Crémant du Jura   Brut Nature  zéro dosage
The wines of this couple, working organically and biodynamically (certifed for both) continue to make big impressions on me. Other than truly great Champagne (more rare than I would like), why would I want a Champagne when I could have this wine for a fraction of the price? This wine is light and crisp with intense minerality and just a hint of vanillin plus great freshness and penetration. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot LCB140315. 91/A

Jean François GANEVAT

One of the greats of the region. Follows biodynamic practices, although not certified. The wines aren't cheap -- until you consider the quality they deliver.

2014 Côtes-du-Jura    Chardonnay    Les Gryphées   Vieilles Vignes
This is excellent and classic Jura Chardonnay, coming from gravel and red marl soils: light, mineral, lemony, and penetrating with plenty of acidity. If the wine below is a combination of Jura Chardonnay and Meursault, this one is Jura Chardonnay with Chablis. Curiously, no organic or biodynamic certification on this bottle, unlike the one below. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot L 1414.  92/A

2014 Côtes-du-Jura   Chardonnay    Les Chalasses    Vieilles Vignes
Côtes-du-Jura meets Meursault. From vines planted in 1902 on gray marl and raised 24 months on the lees, this wine has the minerality of Jura Chardonnay but a density, and opulence one thinks of as coming from Meursault. It is a fabulous wine, and although expensive for Jura, it is cheap when compared to Côte d’Or Chardonnay of comparable quality. Certified organic and biodynamic. 12.5% stated alcohol. Lot L 1404. 94+/A

Domaine des MARNES BLANCHES/Pauline et Gérard FROMONT

The estate here dates to 2006. It is certified organic and located just a couple of kilometers from Roatlier, where Genevat and Labet are located, and from Beaufort, which gives its name to the excellent cheese. 

2015 Côtes du Jura  Chardonnay   En Levrette
This wine is not like your standard Côtes du Jura Chardonnay. Although it has some of the minerality of Jura Chardonnay, it also has some buttery creaminess that recalls a good Meursault. But it’s a lovely wine to drink, nonetheless. 14% stated alcohol. Lot LEV15. 90/A

2015 Côtes du Jura    Savagnin   En Quatre Vis
This wine is classic Savagnin done in the non-oxidative style. The wine is fresh and mineral with a mixture of white and yellow fruits, but not especially ripe in them. Good minerality here, and just enough residual sugar to make for succulence on the finish without any sweetness. I don’t have experience aging these wines, but I’d look to 5-10 years for aging of this wine. 13.5% stated alcohol. Lot 4V15.  90/A 

Domaine du PÉLICAN/Marquis d’ANGERVILLE

Biodynamic practices here.

2015 Arbois   Chardonnay
I’ve been a fan of all the past wines I’ve had from this estate, but this one is leaving me a little nonplussed — does it just need more time or is it really just a fairly standard, rather boring wine as it now appears? The wine is medium-weight and has lemony/vanilla fruit but none of the minerality or energy I expect of an Arbois (or Côtes du Jura) Chardonnay. It’s just too civilized, at least for now. 12.5% stated alcohol.  86(+?)/B-

2015 Arbois  Savagnin Ouillé
This wine is Savagnin made in the non-oxidative style. The wine shows outstanding finesse with lightness and delicacy to go with its minerality and lightly citric fruit. 12.5% stated alcohol. 91/A